Frank Tell, Gary Graham, Doo.Ri

JAX

FRANK TELL

Beautiful, easy pieces constructed from animal skins and silk intermixed with the best ethereal knits that I've seen since Rodarte made up Frank Tell's latest collection.  The looks were inspired by the moss covering the walls of a museum in France, and in fact, the yarn used for the sweaters contained grass, paper, and bamboo.  One of the best executed  collections as far as employing a more minimal aesthetic while remaining true to the designers' roots.

GARY GRAHAM

Somewhere between the celestial and nineteenth century British farm peasants is where I like to think that you would find Gary Graham's spring show.  Apparently, there is some intense beading on a lot of the pieces, but unfortunately, it's impossible to tell in these pictures.  I've been a big G. Graham fan for a while now, and this romantic collection definitely has kept me captivated.  Also notable; this is Mr. Graham's first season to design shoes, at which I would say he was a success.

DOO.RI

Upon first glance, Doo.Ri's most recent show seems nice, if not a little similar to what we've been seeing these past couple days.  You can't blame her for having a time slot halfway through NYFW, when we've already seen so many beige based collections you'd think there were no other colors on Earth.  She's simply on trend.  Nevertheless, I am getting bored, and maybe a little annoyed.  Yes it's nice to have basics and very wearable pieces, but it's a fashion show for Christ's sake, how about trying to really push the envelope and fire up consumers?  Anyways, sorry, back to Doo.Ri.  It seems a little bland, but upon closer inspection there is some excellent texture work at play.  Bypassing her usual tricks of intense draping throughout, Ms. Chung worked with everything from webbed cotton, to pleated chiffon, to webbed jacquard, with much more in between.  It is often these special details that get lost in runway photos, but thanks to New York Magazine, we can revel in the zoomed in photos.  And thus, I leave you with a better feel of what these clothes really are: immaculately precise.